Will modern diamonds fit into antique settings?

That depends on the diamonds in question, particularly on their size and cut. Modern diamonds are usually cut differently than antique diamonds. The modern cut was designed to enhance the brilliance and the natural beauty of the precious gemstone. Modern cut diamonds are characterized by large tables, thick girdles and wide, short pavilions. Modern cut diamonds are usually round brilliants, but they can also be cut into fancy shapes such as marquise, heart, emerald, princess, etc. On the other hand, antique diamonds were cut to maximize their size. Estate diamonds have a smaller table, and an elongated pavilion. Consequently, antique jewelry settings, which were designed to accommodate antique cut diamonds, are elongated and rather narrow. As such, vintage settings may not be able to house modern diamonds, which are generally wider and shorter, and may not be able to properly accommodate fancy cut precious gemstones. Do not despair. Certain antique settings can be modified and re-shaped in order to accommodate a modern cut diamond. For instance, prong settings are rather easy to manipulate and reshape. An experienced jeweler should know how to widen the setting's metal cradle and shorten the delicate prongs that are designed to hold the precious gemstones in place. However, there are certain antique settings which even an experienced jeweler could not successfully alter. Bezel settings, for example, are shaped around the diamond and are cast with a specific diamond in mind. As such, an antique bezel setting would probably have to be replaced by a new, modern setting. In addition to the setting's design, the metal used in the setting is another factor taken into consideration when attempting to reshape an antique setting. If the setting was made with a relatively malleable metal, such as high karat gold or pure silver, then attempting to reshape the setting may cause it to damage and warp. A jeweler will not only have to take the durability of the metal into consideration, but would also need to determine whether there is enough metal to work with. The modification of a design can sometimes result in the loss of material. For example, metal which is melted down and then recast can lose a percentage of its original weight, a setting which is reshaped often needs to be shaved down and reformed. If the setting is delicate, and if it is composed of a small amount of metal, it may be extremely difficult to reshape.

In conclusion, if you were planning on resetting a modern diamond into estate jewelry then I suggest you choose pieces which can be easily modified to accommodate your precious gemstones. Consult with your jeweler before you make your selection and have your diamonds removed from their original settings.

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