August 23, 2010
Among all the diamond settings I'm least familiar with the Bead Setting. I would like to know when is such a setting chosen, how it is executed exactly and is it common in diamond rings or only in other types of diamond jewelry?
August 24, 2010
I don't think you would want your solitaire diamond engagement ring to be bead set:)...
Bead setting is used to embed very tiny diamonds (I'm talking about diamonds of no more than 5 carat points!) in a metal. This is setting is commonly used when numerous small diamonds are being set in a metal surface. The bead setting is performed in a process in which the jeweler engraves the metal surface, creating a metal ledge which would later round the small diamond and keep it assembled to the metal. Therefore the diamond or gemstone is connected to the metal by a hold which is produced from the metal it self, with no additional features added to the jewel.
Bead setting isn't an easy task, but in most goldsmith schools it is taught first, forcing the young gemologist to be precise and creative, analyzing the metal surface's attributes, doing the right measures and creating a diamond setting without the "assistance" of any pre-made setting infrastructure.
Bead setting has always been and will probably remain fashionable. The creativity and professionalism of a goldsmith, managing to produce a setting within a very small metal surface.
You might be familiar with the pave setting, well it is, in fact, a sub category within the bead setting.
The best gold metal composition for producing a bead setting is 18K gold. Lower gold denstiy pieces, such as 14K are usually too firm, unabling the goldsmith to carve the metal easily and produce the desired setting. But soft isn't always good, and in jewelry products of 22K gold the goldsmith often finds it difficult to deal with such a soft metal and cannot generate a firm bead setting.
The bead setting can produce some beautiful white gold diamond jewelry, like rings or bracelets in which a long line of small white diamonds match the color of the white gold, with the latter reflecting back the diamonds' sparkle and intensifying it. Don't think it's easy to produce such a jewelry product, though. Only very professional goldsmiths manage to handle white gold (with its very firm metal alloys) in a delicate manner needed for creating the bead setting.