What are Mokume Gane engagement rings?

Mokume translates from Japanese as wood eye, which refers to burl wood grain, and gane means metal. During the samurai era, mokume gane was utilized to construct the handle for the samurai's sword and often symbolized wealth and status. Mokume was invented by Denbei Shoami, a 17th century master metalsmith. Currently, mokume refers to designs made in this Japanese lamination technique and is typically used to create jewelery.

Mokume gane is created by complex processes involving forging, twisting, rolling and bonding metal alloys together so that they are intimately and intricately entwined. Many layers (most often somewhere between 10-30 layers) of selected metals such as platinum, golds, palladium, silver and/or iron, are clamped together between steel blocks and are then heated in a kiln, which allow the layers to fuse but not melt. The resulting fused stack of metal is called a billet which is rolled to reduce its thickness.

The unique patterns of the Mokume gane are created by hand carving down through the layers in the laminated stack and then rolling and flattenning it out. The process of carving and rolling is performed repeatedly to create the finished pattern. The patterns formed in this manner are almost like a topographic map, showing the depth of the carving into the original laminate
Mokume gane rings are available in a variety of patterns, metals, widths, and embellishments. The mokume gane technique creates a distinctive pattern whereby several general styles can be created depending on how the initial sheets of metal are fused. For example, a "river" design has wavy stripes, while an "island" design has unique loops and swirls. Patterns can also be created to run horizontally or vertically along the ring. The types of metals used will contribute to the color of the rings. Typically two or three types of metals are used in the creation of Mokume Gane, with yellow and white gold being commonly used. Yellow gold creates a yellowish hue whereas white gold creates a grayish hue. The width of the ring is dependent on personal taste, although wider rings better accentuate mokume patterns. Concerning gemstones, you can choose to have a gemstone inserted in the band for an elaborate engagement ring or let the sheer beauty of the mokume gane stand on its own, sans precious stones.

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The Mokume Gane engagement rings are a Japanese inspired engagement ring design. Mokume Gane in Japanese translates into 'wood grain', which refers to the unique texture of this unusual engagement ring. Traditionally, the Mokume gane terchnique was used by Japanese arm smiths to decorate the samurai swords of the rich and powerful. A Mokume Gane engagement ring is made with a variety of precious metals, from platinum to silver, gold to copper, white gold to steel, which are first hammered into thin metallic leaves, leaves which are later intertwined and smelted into a single engagement ring band. A Mokume Gane engagement ring can incorporate as many as thirty different metallic allots into one band. This unique technique is able to display each and every single metal used in creating the ring, by layering and texturing the ring's band with the use of a complex casting process. Mokume Gane engagement rings come in a variety of colors. The hue of the band's metal depends on the metallic alloys used in creating the ring. For example, a rich gold colored Mokume Gane engagement band can be achieved by smelting together high karat gold, copper, bronze and rose gold. A green gold tint is created by mixing 75% high karat gold and 25% silver. By leaving the copper (which is normally used in creating gold tinged alloys) out of the alloy's mixture, the gold gains an appealing greenish tint. A grayish silvery tinted Mokume Gane engagement ring can be produced by incorporating manganese, silver, platinum, zing and a low karat gold. And, perhaps the most popular color in Mokume Gane engagement bands, a rose gold band is achieved  by mixing 75% high karat gold with %25 copper. However, you are not bound by these four primary Mokume Gane engagement ring band colors. A licensed jeweler, experienced in working with the Mokume Gane technique can mix the metallic alloys of your choice to create a stunning and unique Mokume Gane engagement ring. You can play with the band's color by incorporating different precious metals, mixing precious metals (such as gold, platinum and titanium) with semi precious metals (such as sterling silver) and base metals (copper, zinc, brass, rhodium, etc.), or by using different gold or silver karat compounds (high karat gold and high karat silver will have a more intense sheen then low karat gold or silver). Though the Mokume Gane band patterns are created rather randomly, they do often resemble landscapes and other environmental elements. The two most common patterns resulting from this unique smelting technique either resemble waves (the metallic alloys are layered in way patterns along the band's surface) or whirlpools (the metals are displayed in spiral patterns). The patterns' locations vary, they can either appear vertical or horizontal to the ring's center stone. The resulting engagement band is both eye-catching and unusual. Also, the width of the ring will directly influence the patterns' visibility. Generally speaking, the narrower the band, the less apparent the Mokume Gane unique patterns will be, while the wider the band is the more prominent its designs will be. When selecting a Mokume Gane engagement ring, the width of the band should definitely be taken into consideration. Since this particular style of engagement ring seems to be increasingly popular as men's engagement rings, the band tends to be cast wider. However, I believe that the thickness of the band should always be in correlation with the wearer's finger. If the wearer has thicker fingers, I wider band would look very fetching, however, if the wearer's finger is relatively slim, a thick band will look bulky. In that case, a thinner band would be a wiser choice. If you do have slim fingers yet want a wide Mokume Gane engagement band, so that the unique patterns will be as visible as possible, then I suggest you go ahead and order a thick band, but ask your jeweler if he could perhaps split the wide band into two slimmer ones, and wear them as a bridal set. That way, the Mokume Gane patters will still be visible, and the band won't look too awkward worn on your slim finger. You should also consider the width of the rims which run along the band's boarders. Rims are added by jewelers  as a clever way of farming the exquisite patterns present on the ring's band. The rims can be made with virtually any metal, however I recommend you choose a metal whose color is dissimilar to the band's overall color scheme. By choosing say, platinum rims for a rich gold band, the Mokume Gane patterns appear even more prominent. The width of the rims should be in proportion to the width of the band. A slim band requires slim rims, (so that the rims do not overshadow the patterns present on the band's surface), a wider band can have wider rims. Again, the width of the rims should depend on the wearer's finger, but also on his or her personal preferences. In addition to rims, a Mokume Gane engagement ring may incorporate precious gemstones into its singular design. However, since the Mokume Gane patterns are so unique, it is  generally not recommended that you mount any gemstones into the ring's band. If you do insist on using diamonds or other precious gemstones in your engagement ring then I suggest you stick with a solitaire center stone, so that the mounted gemstone will not completely cover or overshadow the engagement ring's patterns.
Though they are increasing in popularity, Mopkume Gane engagement rings are not that common to find. These unusual engagement rings are usually custom made, therefore a Mokume Gane engagement ring may end up costing you a little extra. Though you could cut costs by leaving the ring's band plain and unadorned, without adding any extra embellishments or precious gemstones. If you do happen to decide on purchasing a custom made Mokume Gane I suggest you look up an expert jeweler or jewelry designer, and check his or her credibility before you make your purchase. Since Mokume Gane engagement rings require special expertise and craftsmanship you would need to use a jeweler who is reputedly proficient in using the Mokume Gane technique.

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